Bill's Blog - Single Malt Scotches For
Less Than $50
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My grandmother used to say skill at cards was the sign of a
misspent youth. Well, she failed to warn me about a man’s
misspent middle age, which is no longer restricted to buying
sports cars and chasing younger women. There’s now the equally
ruinous habit – for the wallet and liver – of imbibing
single-malt scotch.
How did I come to this? More disposable income, for one, and
no pressing need to buy a car or another pair of skis. Second,
an equally addicted friend, with whom to compare notes, attend
scotch tastings, conduct late-night samplings and badger into
buying that $200 bottle, or two, of Blacker Still (believe me,
it was worth every penny). Third, those canny Scots.
When I was a young adult, there was no such thing as
single-malt scotch. Ne Plus Ultra or the Famous Grouse was
about as fancy as blended scotch got for me. Then, a couple of
decades ago, single malts started hitting the market, and it
was all downhill from there.
Nowadays, there are 90-some scotch distilleries, each pumping
out 12-, 15- and 21-year olds, along with those
once-in-a-lifetime 40-year-olds for the price of a year’s
university tuition. The barrels they’re aged in – which, along
with the peat fires the barley is roasted in, give the scotch
much of its flavour – have undergone a similar explosion:
barrels that once housed sherry, Madeira, port, bourbon,
various wines, etc. Another spin is the proliferation of
scotches produced from a single year’s malt. The genius here
is that it’s a one-time offer; once that 1986 Blacker Still is
gone, there’s no more to be had, making it easier to justify
re-mortgaging your house.
Still, having tasted a goodly amount of single malts over the
past couple of years, I’ve realized you don’t always have to
spend upwards of $100 for a good scotch. Indeed, there are a
number for half that price that provide mighty fine sipping
and can stand up to many of their far more expensive brethren.
In fact, some 12-year-olds are superior to the 15- or
18-year-olds from the same distillery.
Thus, here’s a short, but hopefully growing, list of splendid
single malts for about $50 (prices in Canadian dollars,
generally not including tax, at the least expensive Calgary
retailers I could find). Disclaimer: Neither my nose nor my
tongue is nearly talented enough to discern the hints of kiwi
or coffee that the experts get ecstatic about, so I’ll quote
from Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible or other websites when words
fail me. If you’re serious about your scotch, Murray’s book is
a lively, insightful and irreverent assessment of hundreds and
hundreds of scotches, plus it’s updated every year.
Highland Park 12-Year-Old – If you’re only going to
drink one scotch and have limited funds, this is the one.
“Pleasantly peaty” and astoundingly good for the price and
better than some higher-pedigree malts at triple the price.
$43 at Superstore liquor stores.
Talisker 10-Year-Old – Another everyday standout.
Remarkably complex, with lots of peaty heat. $47.50 at
Superstore.
Laphroaig Quarter Cask – Faster maturation in a smaller
cask. Jim Murray gives it 95 points out of 100, with these
comments: “Nose: burning embers of peat, intense malt,
refreshing citrus. Palate: rich smoke builds towards a malty-sweet
middle palate. Finish: astoundingly long, & drying with smoke
& spice.” $48.39 at Calgary Co-op Liquor Stores.
Finlaggan Old Reserve Islay – The biggest seller at
Calgary’s best whisky shop, Kensington Wine Market (www.kensingtonwinemarket.com),
which describes it as a mystery malt “with loads of peat and
chocolate.” Says Murray: “If you don't get a bottle of this,
you'll regret it for the rest of your life." $49.99 at
Kensington Wine Market, which says it might be the only place
in Canada that carries it.
Macallan 12-Year-Old – Long considered the standard
against which all single malts should be measured. A fine,
smooth everyday whisky with that distinctive Macallan sherry
taste. $49.99 at Superstore.
Dalwhinnie 15-Year-Old – Emanating from the highest
distillery in Scotland, this sweet, aromatic whisky “exhibits
a light peatiness and medium sweetness that carries through to
a long, rich finish. A gem” (Kensington Wine Market). $47 at
Superstore.
I’m sure there are a number of other fine single malts for
around $50 or less. If you know of some, send me a note at
info@billcorbett.ca
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